🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.